Herwig Prammer for The New York Times

THERE is new energy in Vienna’s imposing gorgeous streets. Where museum-worthy beauty may once have felt untouchable, there is a palpable sense of a city loosening up. It’s alive in the reinvention of the gasthäuser — the Austrian greasy spoons that haunt every corner — now taken over by young chefs’ reinvigorating menus. It’s in the night life, which ranges from gritty to über-designed lounges. It’s in festivals like ImpulsTanz (www.impulstanz.com), the modern dance extravaganza that charms the city each summer, and will do so again this year from July 10 to Aug. 10.


Friday

4:30 p.m.
1) URBAN HIKING

Skip crowded Kärntner Strasse, and lose yourself in the winding streets of the First District while the late-afternoon sun glows off the 17th- and 18th-century buildings. Wander down Dorotheergasse and around the Spanische Hofreitschule, past the grandeur of the Hofburg Imperial Palace, taking in the Staatsoper and the Albertina, up Bräunerstrasse, pausing to peek at the gorgeous sweets in Zum Schwarzen Kameel (Bognergasse 7; 43-1-533-81-25; www.kameel.at). Then meander down swanky Tuchlaben, ending up with a sober homage in Judenplatz at Rachel Whiteread’s memorial to the city’s destroyed Jewish community.

6:30 p.m.
2) EARTHLY DELIGHTS

Before settling down to a glass of prosecco at Meinl (Am Graben 19; 43-1-532-33-34-6100; meinlamgraben.at), the downstairs bar in the gastronomic mecca that is Julius Meinl am Graben, be sure to wander around the aisles of this foodie’s paradise.

7:30 p.m.
3) DARK STAR AT NIGHT

Tucked behind the Am Hof Church on the ground floor of a 17th-century building, Zum Finsteren Stern, or To the Dark Star (Schulhof 8; 43-1-535-2100) is a well-executed epicurean drama with vaulted ceilings and an arched wall of wood carved with tiny stars. Finsteren Stern’s menu changes nightly; recently an asparagus frittata starter was dressed with herbs and cream (9.10 euros, or about $14.50 at $1.59 to the euro), and the grilled sea bream with olive butter (18.20 euros) was succulent. For dessert, try the house topfentarte with rhubarb, a slightly spicy take on traditional Austrian cheesecake.

Midnight
4) GREEN BAR

Grab a drink at the Palmenhaus (Burggarten 1; 43-1-533-10-33; www.palmenhaus.at), the Imperial greenhouse with an impressive display of greenery under its soaring glass atrium. After 8:30 p.m., a D.J. spins.

Saturday

10 a.m.
5) NOSHING AND HAGGLING

Get to the Naschmarkt early for everything from fresh ravioli to spices to asparagus; from Karlsplatz to Kettenbrückengasse, this cook’s haven becomes solid humanity by noon. On Saturdays, beginning at Kettenbrückengasse, a flea market is crammed with Czech glass, wartime memorabilia and antique porcelain dolls. After haggling, stop at the trendy Do-An (Naschmarkt Stand 412; 43-1585-82-53) where less than 10 euros buys a Turkish-style omelet, flatbreads and a melange (café au lait). Or slip across the street for a Naschmarkt breakfast for 9.90 euros at the Cafe Drechsler (Linke Wienzeile 22 and Girardigasse 1; 43-1-581-20-44; www.cafedrechsler.at).

1 p.m.
6) TABLES AND LABELS

Hip Vienna is on show at the furniture shop Wohnzeile4 (Linke Wienzeile 4; 43-1-587-80-80; www.wohnzeile4.at), where you can get a 72 euro vinyl paste-on wall design from Very Sticky or 5,000 euro felt couches. Then head up Girardigasse to the sleek Nachbarin (Gumpendorferstrasse 17; 43-1-587-21-69; www.nachbarin.co.at), filled with new European fashion designers. Next door, Lichterloh (Gumpendorferstrasse 15-17; 43-1-586-05-20; www.lichterloh.com) offers the biggest names in midcentury furniture (Noguchi, Eames) and vintage tabletop designs.

3 p.m.
7) MUSEUM TOWN

In 2001 the former imperial stables and riding school morphed into the amazingly untouristy MuseumsQuartier. In addition to the limestone Leopold Museum (www.leopoldmuseum.at), the Kunsthalle’s rotating exhibitions (www.kunsthallewien.at), the black basalt Museum Moderner Kunst (www.mumok.at) and the Zoom Kinder Museum (www.kindermuseum.at), there are shopping, eating, drinking and dancing. The Tanzquartier (43-1-581-35-91; www.tqw.at) is tucked into the MuseumsQuartier, and performances are often under 25 euros. For snacks and drinks, the romantic Café Restaurant Halle (43-1-523-70-01) and the cozy Kantine (43-1-523-82-39) are favorites, but its hard not to love the Turkish-tiled ceiling at milo (43-523-65-66). Start at the Leopold, with the controversial Egon Schiele collection; there are allegations that a number of the works acquired by Rudolf Leopold after World War II had been looted in the Nazi era.

8 p.m.
8) GAME-TIME DECISION

For high-end dining it’s hard to beat Vestibül (Dr.-Karl-Lueger-Ring 2; 43-1-532-49-99; www.vestibuel.at), the modernist space carved from Imperial splendor that’s matched by luxurious fare like goose liver pâté and kohlrabi with beef (tasting menu is 47 euros). Or try a renovated gasthaus, Zum Roten Elefanten (Gumpendorferstrasse 3; 43-1-966-80-08; www.zumrotenelefanten.at; tasting menu 22 euros), which has an updated midcentury interior with chandeliers and mismatched wallpaper. The saffron, fennel and asparagus soup had a satisfying bite; a trout fillet came with eggplant-and-mint dressing.

12:30 a.m.
9) TO THE BEAT

Take a cab to the Danube Canal and get in line for Badeschiff Wien (on the canal between Schwedenplatz and Urania; 43-676-69-69-009; www.badeschiff.at), an anchored ship that’s been converted into a club that’s packed with Viennese and with raunchy slide shows projected on the walls. Beers are 7.50 euros for two. In the summer, the roof deck pool is popular for night swimming. Or try the DO & CO Hotel’s sleek upstairs bar (Stephansplatz 12; 43-1-535-39-69; www.doco.com) with a spectacular view.

Sunday

10 a.m.
10) MORE COFFEE

In Vienna’s cafe scene, none marries the take-itself-seriously kitsch with modernist sensibility as well as Café Prückel (Stubenring 24; 43-512-61-15; www.prueckel.at). Have a big espresso and sun yourself on the patio outside or while away the morning on the brown velveteen banquettes.

11:30 a.m.
11) LIGHT AND SHADOWS

Across the street, MAK (Stubenring 5; 43-1-711-36-0; www.mak.at), a museum of applied arts, offers excellent exhibitions, including Barbara Bloom’s light-and-shadow play and Jenny Holzer’s installation using the solid Biedermeier furniture of the early 19th century.

1 p.m.
12) HAPSBURGS ON PARADE

The Bruegels at the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Maria Theresien-Platz; 43-1-525-24-0; www.khm.at) were part of the Hapsburgs’ personal collection; the building itself is an astounding mix of murals, marble and royal excess. Then walk up to the Unteres (lower) and Oberes (upper) Belevedere, two facing Baroque palaces surrounded by gardens and home to a selection of Klimts (Oberes, Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27/Unteres, Rennweg 6; 43-1-79-557-0; www.belvedere.at).

7:30 p.m.
13) MUSIC FOR THE MASSES

Vienna’s relationship to music is legendary, and performances can be found from the acoustically marvelous 19th-century Musikverein (Bösendorferstrasse 12; 43-1-505-81-90; www.musikverein.at) to the Staatsoper (Opernring 2; 43-1-51444-2250; www.staatsoper.at). But consider some of the lesser-known venues: like the Weiner Konzerthaus (Lothringerstrasse 20; 43-1-242-002; www.konzerthaus.at), which highlights music that ranging from the Vienna Symphony Orchestra to the popular Israeli singer Chava Alberstein. Or hang on until the wee hours at Porgy & Bess, Vienna’s Jazz emporium (Riemergasse 11; 43-1-503-70-09;.www.porgy.at).

THE BASICS

Many major carriers offer round-trip service from the New York airports with a stop, typically Frankfurt. A computer search for July found options around $1,400.

The City Airport Train (www.cityairporttrain.com) costs 15 euros round trip, about $24 at $1.59 to the euro, and takes 15 minutes to get to the city center. Pick up a Vienna Card for 18 euros at the tourist center on Albertina Platz (43-1-798-44-00-148) for museum discounts and 72 hours of transportation on the extensive U-Bahn and tram system.

The Ring (Kärntner Ring 8; 43-1-22-1-22; www.theringhotel.com), close to the opera house, is the new kid in a city of grand hotels. With 68 rooms it’s relatively compact, and calls itself “casual luxury.” Rooms start at 199 euros.

Hotel Hollmann-Beletage (Köllnerhofgasse 6; 43-1-96-11-960; www.hollmann-beletage.at) has 25 rooms, each packed with techie amenities. A small downstairs spa is also a draw; rooms start at 150 euros.

The Pension A und A (Hapsburgergasse 3; 43-1-890-51-28: www.pensionaunda.at) is two months old. Rates at the eight-room designer pension start at 146 euros, including breakfast.

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