THE Celtic Tiger, the economic engine that roared in the 1990s, may have softened to a purr today, but Dublin still basks in a newfound prosperity. The city’s compact center, at the mouth of the River Liffey, has become a
magnet for young people throughout Europe, imbuing the Irish capital with a modern and international veneer.

Asian herbal shops and Polish galleries now share the history-soaked streets with 18th-century town houses and (smoke-free) old pubs. But Irish traditions die hard. So if you’re looking for classic Dublin, the city still has plenty of nooks to curl up in with a sudsy pint and a good book.

Friday

3:30 p.m.
1) GEORGIAN DOORS

The cloud-dappled afternoon light makes for a splendid time to survey Dublin’s Georgian architecture, a formal and symmetrical style popular in the 18th and early 19th centuries, during the reigns of the first four English kings named George, and known for its colorful, sometimes garish doors. A bright spot to start is Merrion Square, which was home to Oscar Wilde (No. 1) and William Butler Yeats (No. 82). Lower Baggot Street is also lined with colorful doors, many immortalized in a classic poster called “The Doors of Dublin.”

7:30 p.m.
2) STAIR FARE

There’s an old Irish joke that a seven-course Celtic meal is just a six-pack of Guinness and a potato. Truth is, the past decade has brought an influx of sumptuous cuisine far beyond corned beef and cabbage. Such is the fare at the Winding Stair Restaurant & Bookshop (40 Ormond Quay; 353-1-872-7320; www.winding-stair.com) where traditional Irish offerings seamlessly dovetail with nouvelle cuisine. There aren’t many places in Dublin where you can dine on a duck liver parfait with spiced plum chutney (10.95 euros, or $17.41 at $1.59 to the euro), followed by a parsnip-and-shallot tart with Gubeen cheese (19.50 euros). Much of the ingredients are organic and locally grown. Some tables overlook the River Liffey and, yes, the lower floors house a quaint bookshop.

10 p.m.
3) OFFBEAT BREWS

There’s nothing wrong with Guinness Stout, but at times it seems to be the only beer in town. For a different taste, head over the Liffey to the Porterhouse (16-18 Parliament Street; 353-1-679-8847; www.porterhousebrewco.com), one of the city’s surprisingly few microbreweries. The savory stouts include Wrassler’s XXXX, based on a County Cork recipe from the early 1900s, and the Oyster Stout, made with fresh oysters, which add a spicy note to the otherwise dry brew. Note: Bartenders don’t expect tips in Ireland, but if you become friendly with one, buying him or her a pint is a welcome gesture.

Saturday

9 a.m.
4) ROYAL BREAKFAST

Beat the breakfast stampede to the Elephant & Castle (18-19 Temple Bar; 353-1-679-3121; www.elephantandcastle.ie), where much of Dublin seems to go for brunch. Try the French brioche toast with maple syrup (6 euros) or the Irish pinhead oatmeal with sultanas and hazelnuts (4.25 euros). If you’re wondering about the name, it’s from a former London pub that was called Enfanta de Castile. Locals made a malapropism of the name and it became Elephant and Castle.

11 a.m.
5) WITH OR WITHOUT U2

Although the Irish Music Hall of Fame shut down in 2001 for poor attendance, music fans can still seek out a slice of Dublin’s rock history at the former site of the Windmill Lane Studios on Windmill Lane. This is where U2, Van Morrison, Elvis Costello and others have recorded. The old studio stands empty, but fans have covered the boarded-up two-story building in a psychedelic cloud of U2-inspired graffiti. Afterward, head down to Harry Street and pay tribute to the late Phil Lynott of Thin Lizzy fame. A bronze statue stands there in his honor.

1 p.m.
6) FLIP OUT

Head back in time, at least as far as clothing goes, by visiting Flip (3-4 Upper Fownes Street; 353-1-671-4299; www.flipclothing.com), a boutique in Temple Bar that sells vintage clothing from Germany, France and the United States, as well as its own trendy line of urban wear. Expect to find Brandoesque biker jackets (starting at about 75 euros) and Brady Bunch bell-bottoms (from 30 euros). If Flip flops for you, walk a block to another secondhand shop, Eager Beaver (17 Crown Alley; 353-1-677-3342). The store sells used Levis (24.95 euros) and tweeds of all sorts. Also stop by the bright pink storefront of Sesi (11 Fownes Street; 353-1-677-4779) for quirky jewelry, bags and clothing from Chile, Japan and other countries.

3:30 p.m.
7) HIGHBROW BROWSING

If you are overwhelmed by the bigger bookstores on Grafton Street, the city’s retail strip, stroll over to Books Upstairs (36 College Green; 353-1-679-6807; www.booksupstairs.com), an independent outlet with plenty of bargains. And since it’s near the gates of Trinity College, there’s a wealth of books on Irish history and literary criticism, as well as a good selection of gay and feminist literature. The handsome balcony offers views of the streets below, assuming there aren’t piles of books in the way.

8 p.m.
8) A FINE KETTLE OF FISH

For Old World-style seafood, head to the Lobster Pot (9 Ballsbridge Terrace; 353-1-660-9170; www.thelobsterpot.ie), which displays its daily catch on a fish tray that is expertly explained by the staff. If they have it, order the crab claws, delicately seared with garlic butter (15.50 euros), as well as the Dublin Bay prawns (33.50 euros), which are pan-fried in garlic butter and sweetly melt in your mouth. Save room for crêpes suzette, a flambéed crepe filled with caramelized sugar juice and liqueur. It’s a bit pricey (24.50 euros for two), but worth the splurge.

10 p.m.
9) DUBLIN DANCING

While tourists cram themselves into the various watering holes in Temple Bar, you can find a cooler scene across the River Liffey in the city’s International Financial Services Center area, directly underneath Connolly Station. Housed in a former bank, the Vaults (Harbourmaster Place; 353-1-605-4700; www.thevaults.ie) is made up of a series of vaults divided into four rooms lined with thick stone walls and is home to some of Dublin’s best soul and R&B. The dance floor draws a rave-like crowd, including hyperkinetic youths who keep their sunglasses on all night. The other rooms fill up with 20- and 30-somethings in Gaelic football jerseys or business suits. If you’re watching your budget, come on Fridays for drink specials and free munchies.

Sunday

12:30 p.m.
10) GO TO JAIL

The story of Ireland’s fight for freedom may be best told from within prison. Just three miles from the city’s center, the Kilmainham Gaol Historical Museum (Inchicore Road, Kilmainham, Dublin 8; 353-1-453-5984; www.heritageireland.ie) now houses an educational center that covers both the heroic and tragic struggles from the 1780s to the 1920s. This is also where Patrick Pearse, James Connolly and other founding fathers were jailed — and executed. The 45-minute tour is capped by a visit to the chilling stone-breakers yard, where some of the rebels were shot. Admission is 5.30 euros.

2 p.m.
11) WALK IN THE PARK

A post-brunch constitutional through St. Stephen’s Green will spark the imagination. The 27-acre park in the city’s center just off Grafton Street, has several garden areas, including one for the blind that features Braille signs and aromatic plants such as herbs that can be handled repeatedly without harm. Be sure also to visit the William Butler Yeats Garden. There is a sculpture of the poet by Henry Moore, and a statue of Wolfe Tone, the father of Irish Republicanism, that is known as “Tonehenge” for the surrounding Stonehenge-like columns — which shows that one thing is not lost in Dublin’s new globalism: the Irish sense of humor.

THE BASICS

In peak summer months, several airlines including Aer Lingus and Delta have nonstop daily flights from Kennedy Airport to Dublin, starting at about $1,000 for travel in late July. Continental offers nonstop flights out of Newark. To get to the city from Dublin Airport, take the 30-minute Airlink bus for 6 euros, or $9.54 at $1.59 to the euro (353-1-873-4222; www.dublinbus.ie). Or hop in a cab, which costs about 30 euros.

The Dylan (Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4; 353-1-660-3000; www.dylan.ie) is a stylish boutique hotel with funky décor that ranges from Art Deco to ultra modern. High-end touches included large bathrooms with heated floors and recessed televisions. Doubles start at 199 euros.

The Merrion Dublin (Upper Merrion Street; 353-1-603-0600; www.merrionhotel.com), a luxury hotel in the middle of Georgian Dublin, offers silky rooms and 18th-century-style service starting at around 455 euros.

For a cheaper but still elegant spot, try the Waterloo House (8-10 Waterloo Road; 353-1-660-1888; www.waterloohouse.ie), not far from St. Stephen’s Green. Look for the twin red doors. The hotel has 17 classic but modernly furnished rooms, with doubles from 145 euros and a house dog in the backyard garden.

source:www.nyt.com